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Vacuload Air Supply

BlastOne’s Master Technician, Kerry Cooper, discusses Vacuload Air Supply


So, on the rear of this unit here, now, you can see the adductors. There’s a pair of them. On this particular one, you’ve got a valve. So, there’s a butterfly valve in that one. Wonder why I got a butterfly valve in there?

Let’s go back to where we put the air in. Now, you can see there’s the two-inch minsup coupling. So, we’ll require a two-inch bull hose with a double ball clasp done up correctly, the whip check to ensure that the hose is all the way home to the back of the ferrule on the stem of the fitting. Ensure the bolts are nice and tight. Ensure that the gasket here is in good repair and ensure that this gasket is in good repair as well.

So, it needs to be flat, not undermined or damaged. Sometimes, these are a little bit awkward to put on. So, I suggest you get some assistance to help you hold the two-inch ball hose up in the air.

The other thing I suggest too is it just smear a little bit of graphite dust around there because these can become quite tight because there’s significant protrusion of the gasket from the fitting here.

So, to twist that around, if you put a little bit of graphite dust on there, it’ll slip and go into the lock dogs on each side, bull hose mandatory. Two pins not just one but two pins we need two pins because if this twist one pin is not substantial to hold that massive minsup coupling.

So, the whip check, remember, has to be on there and it has to be fitted on this backside of the minsup coupling pulled tight and on the hold the back of the house so that it’s tight, no slack.

So, that’s your feed line. That’s your primary air line. So, once the airs connected, I have two more valves. So, each valve feeds air to each adductor side. So, these are the vacuums. These are the part that go and sucks everything through that particular pressure vessel or receive a room is its adequate name.

So, what happens here is that prior to turning the main air on, just check that these valves work correctly. Sometimes, they’re a little bit tight. So, just check that they work like so. All good.

So, now I can send the air, through to this particular unit. So, as I mentioned each of these requires 350 CFM of air. So, collectively 700 CFM of air.

So, let’s say, for example, I didn’t need all that suction just to finish off a job. I don’t need one of these adductors. So, basically, what I can do is I can turn one of these off if I don’t need the pair of them. Brings me back to 300-350 CFM of air just for one side but it’s only for smaller sections and remember, if you turn one of these valves off, it has a detrimental effect in relation to what the gauging now is telling me in regard to the vacuum.

This is designed for 700 CFM of air and ultimately, we’ll use 700 CFM of air. But if I don’t need one of these, I’ll turn this valve off from that valve off up there so that stops this section from actuating.

So, the suction hose that’s drawn through from this receiver comes into the middle of this. So, by turning this valve off on that valve off, it isolates that particular unit.

If you leave that valve on it still draws backward then through there and this one’s trying to pull this one through. So, that’s why that valves there and that valves there. So, it isolates that particular bowl section of this venturi.

So, it’s designed to have 700 CFM of air. I suggest you use it as such.

So, we’ve got our minsup coupling here in the main plumbed sections. Then if you have a look here, there’s another air line. So, we’ve got an inch airline here, with a minsup coupling, two pins, whip check, double bolt clamp that’s going in and running up the side of the unit.

Well, what do I need that for? The pulse that I was talking about the Goyen values, they run off a little receiver up on top. So, those pulse valves need air to actuate and pulse through the center of your filters.

So, this here has to be a 100 psi and this inch hose feeds that receiver tank up the top. If there’s not a hundred psi in this, they won’t work correctly.

So, on the other side of this machine, I’ll show you directly where that’s operated from.

So, the pulse does need a 12-volt system to run it. So, that’s why we’ve got a battery here. So, that alligator clamped onto the terminals and the power is sent through to a control box on the other side.

So, fundamentally speaking, this is where the 2 adductor systems work your valving, your inlet. your pulse air, and where this door arrangement here with these 2 knobs are inside there are my 4 filter arrangements. So, that gives me access to the filters.

When do I need to access them? When I can’t correct the magnet hilling gauge increment of the vacuum with inside? This I need to have a look at those filters. They may need replacing and they do have a service life. So, if they need replacing, that’s how I access those filters.

It pays periodically whilst on site to check those filters to make sure that they’re cleaned, they have been pulsed, or if the pleats in the filters are blocked completely, you know that they need replacing.

The one thing you wouldn’t suck through that vacuum hose is water while those filters are in place. The filters are drive filter designed for dust, designed to pulse dust.

So, if I sucked water into this machine or this particular receiver, those filters would be undermined immediately, and they would actually start to fall to pieces when it starts to pulse.

So, it’s designed for dry with the filters in there. Make sure that it’s only dry when you utilize this machine and the filters are in place.

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